train

The aggressive pig
has become a real problem for many pig owners.
Seldom does a week go by that I don’t get a call
asking for help with a biting pig. Although my
method has lasting success, the longer the
behavior goes on, the harder and longer it takes
to stop. Aggressive behavior should not be
tolerated in house pigs.

Generally, the pigs that bite are the mistreated
or abused pigs that bite out of fear or, more
commonly, the pig that has not been taught the
order of command in the house. Just as with
people, some pigs are more dominant than others
and all pigs will try to establish dominance over
something if given the right situation. If your
pig happens to be the dominant type and has few
if any rules, he may begin to display aggressive
behaviors.

Most
people who call think they have established rules
in the house because their pig knows the meaning
of "NO". They also think because they
can pet their pig that the pig can be handled.
Then, by asking a few more questions I come to
find out there are rules in the house – but the
pig sets most of them. I also find that their pig
can be pet, but only when he chooses. He cannot
be moved around or picked up unless he is
continually fed to keep him quiet. And
"NO" means — not while someone is
watching, and he probably hears it twenty times a
day. If the pig becomes too much of a bother, he
is locked away. This is especially true when
there are visitors — "just for safety
sake." I find that there is little positive
interaction with the owner and that the pig is
not taught to interact with people outside the
immediate. Just like children, pigs will test
authority and must be taught how to get along in
their environment. This takes a little time and
effort, but owning a pet is a commitment and one
that must be taken quite seriously.

Six months
to one year is commonly when a pig begins to test
the waters and take over the household, but it
can happen at any age. Pigs are not happy until
they know their placement in the household
hierarchy and will challenge other family members
(including pets) to establish their place. Often
strangers in their house are a target; the pig
senses fear and so he becomes more aggressive.
With family members the pig will often start with
the person who appears to be the weakest and most
afraid, then work his way up. The most important
part of stopping aggressive behavior is
overcoming all fear of the pig. About 75% of the
problem is that some family member is afraid of
the pig, which only adds to the pigs
determination to dominate. Standing up to the pig
will greatly reduce his advances. Most pigs start
backing off without any correction.

Pigs are
highly intelligent animals and will only engage
in a fight if they are confident they will win.
In nature, pigs will test other drift (family)
members a little at a time, then watch to see
what happens. If their rival shows fear or
weakness, he knows he has won and becomes more
aggressive. If the rival does nothing, he
continues to test until there is a reaction and
the dominance issue is resolved.

There are several methods people have used to
correct the aggressive pig. Squirt bottles,
whips, newspapers, etc. If one of these methods
has worked for you — great, but the problem is
you don’t always have these things immediately
available and the pig can quickly learn when the
tool is with you and when it’s not. Corrections
on aggressive pigs must be done immediately to be
effective. You can’t be running across the room
to pick up your tool — it’s too late. Yelling
"NO" at your pig is not a good idea
either. An aggressive action needs more than a
verbal reprimand and "NO" has probably
lost some of its effectiveness in every day
living.

Other
problems I see with yelling or making loud noises
is that:

• It
  makes the pig fearful of anything loud.
• It
  implies that only loud commands have
  meaning.
• It
  frightens guests or relatives enough to
  make them afraid of your pig.

Recognizing
Aggressive Behaviors In Pigs:

• Standing
  very still with head very low (always
  done before biting — if only a split
  second.)
• Snapping
  in the air.
• Swinging
  head sideways.
• Lunging,
  nips very close to rival, then jumps
  back.
• Biting

In Who’s
the Boss II John will describe his technique for
correcting aggressive behaviors in pigs.

About the
Author: John Vincent trains pigs and does quite a
lot of entertaining with them. His TOP HOGS act
is well known both nationally and
internationally.

Pigs understand
physical correction very well. After all, this is
how they naturally establish dominance between
each other. The correction described below has
been used on many pigs with great and lasting
success. The correction is not an overnight
miracle cure, it takes time, consistency and
effort — but it will work. During the first week
of corrections, it’s possible that your pig may
even get worse because your taking away
privileges he has enjoyed. The correction also
requires you to work positively with your pig,
learning to handle and control him. It’s designed
to teach your pig not to bite yet it doesn’t
hurt, frighten, or make him hand shy. You must
never lose when making the correction, and if you
get into a fight with the pig, you are doing
something wrong.

First, get
your pig comfortable with you gently holding his
mouth closed. This is accomplished best while
petting the pig. Next, get your pig comfortable
with you moving him a few inches while holding
his mouth closed. Once he’s comfortable, you are
ready to use the correction.

It’s
important that the first few times you make the
correction you are fully prepared. The correction
must be done without hesitation. You cannot chase
the pig around the room, this only frightens him
and he forgets why he’s being chased. You also
have to learn not to pull back when the pig
snaps. Pulling back shows fear that the pig will
sense and the correction will be much less
effective. The hardest part of this correction is
teaching yourself to grab your pig’s mouth and
not pull away. To help yourself be prepared for
the correction, it’s best to try to set the pig
up. Place a harness on your pig to help with
controlling him. Put the pig in a situation that
causes him to nip and be prepared. Remember to
make the correction each and every time the pig
displays any aggressive behavior. Don’t wait for
the pig to snap. If you see it coming, correct
him immediately. Learn to recognize the
aggressive signs.

Phase l:

When your
pig makes any aggressive action, quickly grab
your pig’s mouth and hold it closed. Don’t let
him swing his head or run away. Hold his head for
two or three seconds, firmly say "NO"
and release. At first the correction is very
short to ensure a victory for you and to avoid a
huge wrestling match with the pig. You are
controlling the pig, you are not trying to
frighten or harm him. Show no emotion, this is
simply a rule the pig must follow. After the
correction, continue on as if nothing happened, A
little practice may be required to catch the pig
before he runs off or to avoid being bit, but
this technique can be mastered in a short time.
For the faint of heart, a leather glove can be
worn at first, but remember you may not always
have a glove available at the appropriate time.
Repeat holding the pig’s mouth closed for two to
three seconds each time he displays any
aggression until he becomes comfortable with the
handling (about four to six times).

Phase 2:

Now the
severity of the discipline must be increased each
time the correction is made. About one second
with each correction until you reach fifteen
seconds. Remember, if you’re fighting the pig,
you’re probably proceeding too fast. You must
remain calm and in total control.

Phase 3:

Once you
have reached fifteen seconds, it is time to get
more physical. Lift the pig off his front feet
while holding his mouth closed for five seconds.
There are three easy ways to do this:

l) One
hand on the mouth, the other on the leg near
the shoulder.

2) Both hands on the mouth.

3) If he is wearing a harness, one hand on
the mouth, the other on the harness. Keep
increasing the time until you reach twenty
seconds. If the pig understands the rules,
move to the next step.

Phase 4:

With the
pig’s front feet off the ground, drive him
backwards about a foot. With each correction,
drive him backwards a little further until you
push him across the room and into a corner, a
wall or a piece of furniture. Show no emotion. If
you have a larger pig that you can’t lift off his
front feet, just drive him backwards on all four
feet. Lifting the front feet off the ground is
best and even with a l00 pound pig you only need
to lift his front end – or about fifty pounds. If
you have HOGGIN’s video, "Amazing Pig
Tricks," this correction is shown in the
intermediate section where the pig breaks
"sit-stay."

Phase 5:

The next
step requires some preliminary training. The pig
must have been taught to sit physically – not by
being lead with a piece of food. This
"sit" is also shown in the training
video "Amazing Pig Tricks" in the
intermediate section. The pig should also be
taught "stay." A pig that will stay
when told, truly respects you. For very
aggressive pigs, this forced sit and stay is very
important to teach. The training also gives the
pig positive time with you, not just negative
experiences. Once your pig has mastered sit,
drive the pig across the room and physically
place him in the sit position, hold for about
five seconds. Show no emotion. When your pig
knows stay, leave him on stay starting from ten
seconds up to one minute. Remember to always
release the pig from sit stay. Do not let him
wander off on his own.

The
correction could take four to five weeks
depending on these factors: 

* How many times the correction is made. * How
long the pig has been biting. 

* How effective you are in making the correction.

You must
be consistent and always follow through with the
appropriate degree of correction necessary to
cure your aggressive pig. All that you’re doing
is calmly and unemotionally teaching your pig (in
his own language) that he does not hold the
dominant position in the household.

Because of
a pig’s aggressive behavior, many people want to
find a new home, shelter or rescue for their pig.
Placing a pig in a new home is very difficult and
placing a biting pig may be impossible. Many
problem pigs placed in shelters or rescues are
never adopted and are either euthanized or
condemned to live their lives in outside pens,
only getting attention when fed. It’s a harsh
experience for a once loved and pampered pet. The
correction described in this article has saved
many pigs from getting locked away, sent away or
euthanized. It’s your pet, your responsibility,
your choice. Make the right one.